All that I knew was all that hate had violence backing it up. I wasgoing to get killed for being any of those things, or all of them.Then there was t...is lightning flash blur and it turned out Tamara hadshoved the guy from behind. He took this kind of faltering leaping jumpforward and I swung both my arms at him, hands open, palms out. Ilanded maybe five or six (who was counting?) open-handed slaps before Isuffered full-on vertigo as the world whirled upside down when someonelifted me bodily. She said, "Okay, I'm out here. Now, what do I do?" Well, you try to time a swell so you can paddle with it and get just in front as it breaks. Ride in laying on the board a few times, then try to kneel, and then stand after you are comfortable with it."She was a quick learner. She watched me time a wave, ride in a ways, and then return. She tried one and quickly realized before I said anything that she had to leave sooner to catch the wave correctly. She rode the first one laying down. On the. More

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